We had a long sleep after last night’s journey. The first thing on the agenda was breakfast. So we jumped on our motorbike and headed to the center of the village which is about 500 meters coast with a little beach, small port for yachts and six taverns.
We were discussing which one we should choose and a A4 sheet saying “free wi-fi” helped us to make up our minds. We did not expect that kind of civilization in this tiny place! So we walked into “Afroditi” (a very popular name for taverns in Greece). An elderly gentleman, who was chilling with his coffee near the door, brought us a menu, username and password. Two men were sitting at the next table with glasses of water and it seemed that they were taking active part in the life of the family running this restaurant. A full-bodied grandson returns from school. He’s just about to go snorkeling in the beach, but his mother won’t let him. He is angry, those two with the glasses are commenting something. Father returns on a motorbike. He has an emotional discussion with everyone, puts a crying son and his sister on a motorbike and they all leave.
We researched a menu and suddenly our light breakfast turned into serious lunch. I had stuffed tomatoes. Grandma of this naughty boy cooked it and brought them to me. They were a bit greasy for me but very tasty, stuffed with rice and fresh herbs. The other A4 said that tavern also offers laundry (7 euros) and even shower – probably for people who travel with yachts.
Our next stop – Petastra Moto Rentals. We had to pay for our bike. A nice lady invited us to the office. She told us that her husband’s name, whom we met last night, is Stavros. He flew in on one of these noise makers and inflated our wheels. We scooted to Mandraki – the capital of Nisyros island. When we arrived late last night we only spoted the liquor store, so we decided to look for food in a larger town.
Mandraki is bigger and more lively than Pali where we lived. There’s more hotels, restaurants and, of course, more tourists. There is a port, remains of a castle and a monastery that attracts crowds of tourist twice a day. But unlike them we were exploring little streets that looked exactly the same as in pictures from touristy web sites – narrow, full of flowers, with blue window shutters and chilling cats. We did our shopping in a small market, but were unable to get any fruits, because the fruit market was already closed for siesta. There was a phone number on the door, but we decided not to wake him up.
Stavros indicated a wild beach on the map. He told us to drive straight until the road ends (there are only two asphalt roads in Nisyros). We drove 2-3 kilometers, pass the farming area where free cows and pigs were having their tan by the sea and found ourselves in a beautiful wild beach. We greeted a couple that was already enjoying it and stretched our towels on a stony shore.
The taverns of Pali are quite empty during the day, but in the evening they become full of French, German and Italian voices. Most of them are elderly tourists. Are we elderly too, according to our holiday needs?? This time we chose another wi-fi restaurant “Captain’s House” (probably this is the second most popular tavern name in Greece). The owner greeted us with username and password as soon as we took our smartphones out and cited the catch of the day. I went for squid and my man had something „like calmar, but small, same family“. The meals were very simple, but very tasty. Fresh seafood cooked in oil and served with rice and potatoes was very soft and smelled really nice. You cannot even compare it with that frozen stuff we get at home that turns into tire when you cook it.
We stopped to get some wine for better digestion on our way home. I was not brave enough to buy Retsina, but lucky enough to find 5 liters of local white wine for 10 Euro. I grabbed that pack and proudly brought it home on the seat of a motorbike.
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